Jan 21 2022
Many culinary delights that Americans enjoy today, especially in the Southern United States, can be traced back to the dark and exploitative history of the transatlantic slave trade. Some of the most notable crops that were brought by enslaved people from West African nations include okra, rice, yams, black-eyed peas, and kidney and lima beans. These starch staples were central to African diets, and provided nourishment during the brutally long passage to North America. Seeds of these plants were cultivated in North America and became incorporated into the everyday diet of enslaved populations, afterward becoming main components of Southern cuisine.
Abelmoschus esculentus, commonly known as okra, is thought to have originated from the region around Ethiopia. It is estimated that the plant arrived in the Southern United States beginning around the 16th century through the slave trade. Okra was one of the few crops that enslaved Africans were able to bring with them from their communities and these crops were successfully cultivated thanks to the early growing season and mild winters of the South. Culinary historian Michael Twitty noted that “okra was one of the ultimate symbols of the establishment of the enslaved community as a culinary outpost of West Africa.” Okra became a staple in the personal gardens of enslaved people, providing extra sustenance when food was limited or withheld by slaveholders.
The slimy, viscous consistency of okra was used to thicken soups and stews and developed into gumbo, a savory stew made with various combinations of shellfish and/or meat. This dish has become widely popular in the South, especially in New Orleans. The term “gumbo” originates from the Angolan word for okra, kingombo. Fried and stewed okra with tomatoes were also enjoyed by enslaved people, and have become a hallmark of African American cuisine. Furthermore, the oily seeds of the plant were roasted and brewed, used by enslaved people as a coffee substitute. The versatility of the okra plant made it a mainstay in Southern cuisine. Medicinally, leaves of Abelmoschus esculentus were mashed to create a clay-type substance to apply to inflamed areas on the body. Enslaved women also used the slimy substance within the okra pods to induce abortions by coating the uterine passage, a method still utilized by West African women today.
